Review Collection

Have power mesh, will travel. For Spring, Vivienne Tam culled her inspiration from a trip to Beijing’s Forbidden City, lifting design elements of flora and fauna from paintings, enamel boxes, and architecture, and marrying them with athleticwear. They were magnified and printed in vibrant shades, or cut out and stitched onto sporty mesh dresses for a decoupage effect. Some natural references were blown up to a low-res blur that was especially novel and looked great on trousers. Others were silhouetted and laser-cut from neoprene and used to trim dresses and skirts. Neoprene has in the past few seasons reached such oversaturation on the catwalks as to feel ubiquitous, but Tam deserves credit for her take on the fabric here. It was current, but not cloyingly so. Overall standouts were a frock in white power mesh with a deconstructed wave print and Tam’s sheer jerseys embroidered with traditional Chinese landscape scenes. Those could hold their own against a host of streetwear labels offering similar pieces today.

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