Review Collection

Véronique Branquinho described the message of her Spring collection as “the beauty of unfinished things.” In fashion terms, “unfinished” is a similar notion to “effortless”—to do them right actually requires significant sleight of hand. Except the Belgian designer went on to say, “I had to learn to let go, and so a lot of things are half-finished.” If this sounds like a perfectionist’s worst-case scenario, it yielded a consistent collection for Branquinho, who worked between a push-and-pull of generous paper-bag shapes and pretty pleated ruffles. Near the beginning, she anchored several looks with a white tank top, reducing femininity to the most basic underpinning, and then introducing transparent, filmy overlays or plackets from scraps culled from the shimmery pleated skirts that gave the collection its ethereal edge. Within a denim grouping, Branquinho’s stance on sexy turned binary: a bandage bra of ribbons in one look, a molded-shoulder sleeveless jacket over a bare chest immediately following. But this also helped set up her segue to black, whereby suiting and lacquered silk skirts tilted the textural balance toward opaque.

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