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Vera Wang is a born tomboy who wears only black, yet she became the world’s foremost wedding dressmaker. Don’t you just love the contradiction? This season, the designer made her incongruities work for her, dividing her show into two acts. The program notes said, “Boyish Boudoir, Baby Bohemian.” And backstage, she explained, “There are two very distinct parts: One is tailored, the other side is very flou.”

Yet look closer and you could see how they overlapped. Take the tailoring. Pants were no-fuss, but jackets, though neat and trim in shades of black and charcoal gray, featured wide bands of tulle and ruched ribbon below the waist, as well as dense passementerie embroidery at the hips or on the back.

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