Review Collection

Instead of hitching her collection to an exotic vacation destination as per usual, Tsumori Chisato traveled straight into her imagination this season. With a fantasy garden as her backdrop—or sometimes in high relief—she transposed wilted flowers onto tops and coaxed bounciness from knitwear to mimic a peacock’s posturing stride. Because Chisato’s clothes are invariably so exuberant, one is never fully able to grasp the extent of her technical workmanship. One standout dress combined white lapels framing an open back with what appeared to be a patchwork organza skirt. In fact, a layer of cotton had been glued to nylon, and when treated with a special wash, any unglued areas dissolved away, resulting in sections of translucent color. Hand crinkling gave the illusion of fine pleats to a dress featuring alternating horizontal bands of black and white.

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