Review Collection

It’s been three seasons since Gaia Trussardi stepped into the creative seat of the family house, and it’s time to take stock of the distance traveled. The exhuberance of the first seasons has been worked through and the designer is now unfettered by the gimmicks that tripped up her earlier offerings. Once freed, her designs are easily readable and paint a vision of refined Italian sportswear, on track with the week’s undisputed major story.

It read like a statement of intent, its luxury conspicuous through the use of alligator and ostrich skins on the simple shapes of a skirt, or an oversize coat, played down just enough by cuts made to move. Trussardi has an excellent sense of proportion: a cropped sweater played very well with high waisted trousers to highlight feminine curves, an aviatrix’ jumpsuit in tactile blue suede, youthful pleated skirts, all winning looks hinged on feminine silhouettes deftly marked. And she couldn’t go wrong with the tan and white palette of warm weather neutrals, with a touch of almond green, burgundy or cohort of blues to live things up. It continued the understated narrative, with unexpectedly good pairings to be tried. It was a well-rounded outing, proving that Trussardi is well on her way to finding her footing. But for all its good points, its asperity-free slickness lacked the spark to make it truly shine out.

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