Just when you thought there was no longer any way to spin the ludicrous extravagance of a Thom Browne show, the man turned the game upside down with a collection whose paradoxical marriage of restraint and excess produced a genuine, Stone Gon’ fashion moment. The restraint was in the silhouettes: a trouser suit, a jacket and flaring skirt, a coat—all straightforward, untroubled by Browne’s yen to de- and reconstruct. The excess was in the fabrics: gorgeous, multidimensional assaults on reason. But, because they were contained within a comprehensible, familiar frame, they entranced rather than perplexed. It was the smartest move Browne has ever made—it spotlighted his skill, rather than his willfulness.