This season marks Thakoon Panichgul’s 10th anniversary on the New York fashion week schedule. There will be celebrations later this fall, but if the milestone put him in a reflective mood, he said he wasn’t tempted to do a greatest hits collection today. Instead, he found inspiration in the 1959 flick Black Orpheus. “I liked the mood,” he said, explaining that its tropical setting got him thinking about “exoticism through the eyes of a tourist.”
He set his own mood with slanted blinds that cast what looked like late-day sunlight on the runway. Black Orpheus took place in Rio, but we could’ve just as easily been in some other hot clime: Cuba? Tahiti? The place and time were hard to nail down, but the vibe wasn’t. It was liquid and languid. Lengths were elongated, the silhouette fairly loose. The wrap dress that opened the show was barely tied at the hip; it looked as if it could spill open at any moment. Later, that same dress was worn open over a shorter number, but it felt less like a coat than a robe. Tunics paired with full cropped pants evoked pajamas.