Review Collection

Other designers are channeling the idealism of the early ’70s this season; Hedi Slimane is into the dissipation. “Un, deux, trois, coucher avec toi,” Al Eide sang on the soundtrack, specially commissioned for the show, but don’t let the French lyrics fool you. We got the distinct impression we were in Slimane’s adopted hometown of L.A., hanging backstage with glam-rock fan girls Lori Maddox and Sable Starr in their bad old not even legal days on the Sunset Strip.

Accessories were the most obvious shift from the mid-’60s pop tarts who decorated the Saint Laurent runway last season. Instead of sparkly Mary Janes and opaque tights, platform sandals, black hosiery, and the odd Donna Jordan turban or two. Slimane’s about to do for platforms what he did for low-heel pumps a few collections ago. Detractors will say the clothes looked too much the same as last season’s. But take a closer look than the models’ speedy turns down the runway allow, and distinctions emerge. Spring’s Saint Laurent chick is a little more in love with color and a lot more comfortable with prints—Hollywood Boulevard stars, lurid flowers, and (poignantly) cherries. She’s also got a new thing for showing off her décolletage, or what there is of it.

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