Richard Nicoll and Walt Disney don’t spring to mind as obvious bedfellows, but it was Disney sponsorship that put Tinker Bell at the heart of Nicoll’s new collection. Brooding over a contemporary equivalent of the fairy who doesn’t age, he came up with Kate Moss, and the collection unfolded from there as a sort of rummage in Kate’s closet, from sporty short shorts to languid bias-cut evening dresses.
This soup-to-nuts cycle was broader than anything Nicoll has shown before. “It’s my lifestyle approach,” he said. Some lifestyle. Tinker Bell manifested in the opener, a slipdress ethereally illuminated with a filigree of fiber optics by Studio XO, a London-based company that has made costumes for Lady Gaga. Then the show got back to terra firma as Nicoll collaborated with Sweaty Betty, the U.K.’s biggest activewear brand. His signature body consciousness has always had a strongly sporty undertow. Here, he was imagining “clothes you could wear to a bar, then run home in.” A striped bandeau and matching shorts fitted that bill. So did jazzy little gingham pieces, like the hoodie over an aerodynamically slashed dress in cotton jersey.