Review Collection

AMO, the company that designs the sets for Prada’s shows, has created some special effects in the past. In June, the show space was transformed into a huge swimming pool as a backdrop for the Spring menswear collection. Today, the women’s turn, the expanse of water had been replaced by eerie dunes made of lilac sand. Limpid water to dry sand—a process suggestive of catastrophe.

There were other clues. The collections shared certain characteristics—a lot of topstitching, a lot of coats—but Miuccia Prada’s menswear show settled for conservatism to the point where it was singled out as emblematic of normcore. And Mrs. P wasn’t going to like that much. So if at first glance her new women’s looks were still bourgeois-proper—A-line coats with three-quarter sleeves, belted coatdresses, shapely skirts to the knee paired with little sweaters, all things she’s done before—that late “normality” had actually been unhinged, perhaps by the disaster that turned water to sand. It’s the kind of willful twist she pulls off better than anyone else.

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