The new collection Prabal Gurung showed today is very much an evolution of what he did for Fall. ″I wanted to continue the journey,″ he said. ″This time it′s more a visual diary of her trek up the mountains.″ We′re back in the Himalayas, only now it′s spring. Instead of deep reds, he used a palette of sunset pastels. Where last season′s chunky knits inched towards the chin, today′s collaged sweaters are open-weave and asymmetrically draped, exposing a slice of shoulder here, a hipbone there. And in place of furs and brushed-wool coats, he showed drawstring-waist silk jackets that married his two abiding interests: sport and haute couture.
Gurung is to be commended for finding a groove and digging in. His last couple of collections have displayed the confidence of a guy who now knows who he is. All in all, though, this show wasn′t the success that last season was. The sweaters were easy to like, as were the zippy trekking trousers he showed them with. And there was an appealing ease to a trio of belted, breezy printed dresses.