In this era of heritage brand revivals, we talk a lot about updating house codes. It’s trickier than it sounds: Plenty of designers find themselves trapped by the past. Julien Dossena of Paco Rabanne is not one of them. Today’s show was his third for the Puig-owned label, and he just keeps getting better. His predecessors’ collections were often drowning in chain mail—the most obvious of Paco-isms. Dossena didn’t even turn his attention to the subject until two-thirds of the way through this lineup. Painted white or black instead of flashy metallic colors and suspended asymmetrically from cotton harnesses, the shifts were quite complicated in their construction—”super-worked” is how Dossena described them—yet in attitude they were young and sporty. That’s no easy feat, but it’s a quality that defined the designer’s Spring collection from start to finish.