Review Collection

Maxime Simoëns is bullish on color for Spring, so much so that he opened his show with a hashtagged crop top that read, “Colorful is the new black.” Whether he expected people to spread the news this way (singer Keren Ann, seated beside actresses Suzanne Clément and Juliette Binoche, was among those who did), Simoëns was eager to share how integrating color has affected his outlook and how he hoped this transferred to the clothes. Enthusiasm, of course, is a double-edged sword. With three leather openwork looks early in the show, Simoëns gave savoir faire a vibrant boost; midway through there was another solid grouping, this time lantern-pleated and breezy around the body. Influences from the 1960s and ’80s could be detected in silhouette and surface detail alike, and that’s where Simoëns seemed to struggle between remaining referential and proposing a unique proportional point of view.

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