Imagine being inside Mary Katrantzou’s head when she’s dreaming about a new collection. Dance was on her mind for Spring, but all that synchronized movement got her thinking about the body as a set of interlocking tectonic plates. And that got her thinking about the planet 200 million years ago—the supercontinent Pangaea, the super-ocean Panthalassa, the way life-forms evolved from sea to land. Creationists, look away now.
Katrantzou has already proved herself fearless: no ocean too deep, no mountain too high to provide grist for her creative mill. But Paleozoic planet Earth took the cake. She’s moved on from the sumptuous engineered prints that made her name. Now it’s sumptuous textures that captivate Katrantzou, and where better to find such things than the world in primordial flux. On a catwalk that was a lava flow of black rubber chips, with Sigur Rós soaring heavenward on the soundtrack, she paraded clothes in a palette of sand and ocean (muted, new for her), shades of alien flora and fauna, tulle printed and embroidered like a serpent’s skin, plain cotton transmogrified by ridges of coral squiggles, and tectonic plates of glitter mounted peekaboo on sheer bodies. It was another Katrantzou tour de force.