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The Marios Schwab show this afternoon got off to a pretty strong start with a series of crisp, menswear-inspired looks. There was a loss of momentum after that. Schwab is an intellectual designer, and this season, it got in his way. One of his key ideas was to create a kind of minimalist texture in his garments by subtly faceting the material like a gemstone. The idea was interesting in theory, and pretty low impact in practice. Likewise, Schwab’s architectural slits and hemlines didn’t do much to distinguish his silhouettes, though the effect proved memorable in tandem with gray granite prints, or when created via the artful draping of swaths of silk like big scarves.

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