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Lucas Nascimento is a knitwear whiz. The Brazilian-born, London-based designer has built his brand on woven fabrics fashioned into the most remarkable tailored ensembles. This season, however, Nascimento moved out of his comfort zone, working primarily with silks and leathers. The results were mixed. “I wanted it to look light,” the designer said of his choice to move away from his tried-and-true textiles. “I wanted to have a breeze of air going through the garments.” He more or less achieved that—windbreakers with bunched, almost ruffled collars fluttered down the runway, along with silk half-dresses (one side looked like a fluid column, the other was virtually nonexistent and hung over a little tube bra). But the windbreakers felt a touch old. Same goes for Nascimento’s boxier dresses—they seemed dated and unflattering, and the chartreuse, royal blue, and robin’s-egg palette didn’t help. A floor-length leather vest in taupe was interesting enough, but most of Nascimento’s hides were too stiff, or hit the model in the wrong place.

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