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Jason Wu made headlines today with the news that he’s sold a majority stake in his brand to the investment firm InterLuxe. Next up: a flagship and an expanded accessories range. Perhaps with an eye to his first store, his Spring collection played it restrained and safe. Remember the Kaws-designed graffiti print of a few years back? There was nothing quite that playful at Spring Studios this afternoon. Instead Wu opened with a beige-ish abstract brushstroke jacquard. A little bit artsy, but all grown-up. Otherwise, he preferred the simplicity of white, black, navy, and fatigue green.

“The one word I keep thinking is beauty,” Wu said via phone a few days ago, adding, “as usual, it’s a refined take on American sportswear.” He also called out Charlotte Rampling as an “invisible muse.” The actress’ effortless, slightly gamine sense of chic came across best in a white silk sleeveless blouse with a flounce down the front worn with full, slightly flowy trousers. Minimal suede separates in navy and limestone green had a similarly easy allure, and Karlie Kloss breathed a lot of life into her simple black silk shirtdress.

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