Although J.W. Anderson’s Fall ’14 collection was rather divisive, the more commercial pieces he distilled from it, which were shown at sales appointments, were pretty much unanimously held up as ratification of LVMH’s investment in the brand, and of Loewe’s appointment of Anderson as its new creative director. This season the ratification was right there on the runway: This was a relatable, wearable collection, yet challenging in ways that advance the fashion conversation.
Anderson wouldn’t own up to it, but there seemed to be a nautical theme here, interpreted in gently surreal fashion. The backward sailor pants were fantastic—slung low, with a slight flare—while sculpted tops and dresses slung with hemp rope suggested masts and sails. You could also detect a salt breeze in the towel-like mini-suits of densely knit cotton, and in the watery leathers that closed the show. Both the mini-suits and the leather looks were, it bears pointing out, body-baring and marked by some youthful joie de vivre.