Review Collection

“In a dream where the dragon fruit is the main character, wardrobe for the night.” read the show notes to Alexis Martial’s Iceberg spring/summer 2015 collection.

As far as premises go, the show release offered a weird tale of California holidays, summer brights and video games. And sure enough, there were parts of all of this peppered throughout the show, under the donut-shaped lights of a Milanese Palestra hall.

Think Americana activewear incarnated in various elements: scuba zips along the front, mountaineering gear for belts, referee pinstripes reworked askew as dresses. The speckled insides of the inspirational fruit appeared as print, its rind providing the lurid but true-to-life pink hue of elliptical patterns. Slightly odder and perhaps just too much was the flurry of Dalmatian ruffles which made an appearance. All those disconnected elements could have almost obscured the strong points of the young designer, namely his tailoring skills and the pretty smart eye he has for what works.

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