Review Collection

After showing his final collection for Hermès today, Christophe Lemaire might have appeared his usual placid self, but he insisted he was churning with emotion inside. And if there were banked passions in the clothes, they were also exquisitely sublimated. It’s what Hermès does best.

The serenity and purity of line of Lemaire’s own collection always gelled well with the Hermès womenswear aesthetic, at least as it was laid out by Martin Margiela, whose redefinition of stealth luxury for the label still stands as a high point of fashion at the turn of the century. Lemaire put his own spin on that legacy when he cut the relatively penitent shape of a scarf-draped smock from palest python.

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