Giorgio Armani has already proved he has the power to corral Oscar-winning directors. Paolo Sorrentino was the latest. Honored for his epic La Grande Bellezza, he dialed down to intimate for Armani with a short film that opened the show: two naked bodies entwined in rope on a beach, in a primal landscape like the Aeolian Islands off Italy’s southern coast, a part of the world that Armani loves. Sabbia, the film was called—sand. Like the collection. But the darkly erotic scene set by Sorrentino was rapidly supplanted by Armani’s abstract opalescence. Sand, yes, but expressed in a monochromatic world of python print, floral-embroidered diaphanousness, and the striated patterns created by wind on dunes.