London’s Fashion Fringe competition has faded from the spotlight in the years since it was established. Internationally, the Woolmark and LVMH Prizes have dominated media attention of late – whilst, closer to home, Fashion East’s biannual group show has demonstrably had its finger far more surely on London’s fashion pulse (and, in turn, has seen more of its names graduate to the main schedule).
Fashion Fringe’s winners (Erdem, Basso & Brooke and Aminaka Wilmont amongst them) have enjoyed a somewhat lower profile, and been characterized more by a sense of old-school, elegant drama than by a feel for the zeitgeist. That’s been true of 2011 winners Fyodor Golan, also — but of late the duo have seemed determined to rewrite their trajectory.
Today’s show was held at the end of a graffiti-splattered South Bank railway tunnel, far from the stately courtyard of Somerset House. Inside, a vast inverted pyramid acted as the collection’s literal fulcrum, streaming images of both models and audience throughout the presentation.