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Since his show in February, Francesco Scognamiglio has separated from his business partner. Backstage he was talking about the difficulties of doing it all on his own again, but he was fairly upbeat. He named his new Spring collection Renaissance—the models’ faces were covered with glitter, as if they were freshly emerged from a chrysalis—and after last season’s scaled-back efforts, this did feel like a return to fanciful form. But not too fanciful.

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