If it’s no longer true that all roads lead to Rome, the two-lane highway that ran down the Fendi catwalk today was definitely headed back there. Fendi’s new Roman headquarters is the Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana, built under Mussolini. Its “Square Colosseum” configuration was the inspiration for today’s set, and when Silvia Venturini Fendi talked about the collection being “on the road,” she meant the high velocity that is sweeping Fendi into the future. Or was it “high frequency,” a new technique that managed to inset strips of fabric without stitching (or something of that sort) to create the kind of seamless, streamlined effect you might get when you look out the window of a fast-moving vehicle?
Movement was everything in this collection. Skins were finely slashed vertically to create an optical quiver; tattered organdies floated like feathers. There was a subtle shimmer to the film of what looked like perforated plastic that coated a patchworked fur shift. (One way to waterproof your furry finery.)