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Esteban Cortazar, the Colombian-born Paris-based designer, was deemed a Wunderkind when he showed at New York Fashion Week while still a teenager—and again when he became Ungaro’s creative director before he’d lived a quarter of a century. He may have been rather off the radar since, but he clearly still has some key fashion world supporters: Nina Garcia, Natalie Massenet, and Jason Wu were just a few of the attendees eagerly awaiting his runway return.

Held at an airy Marais studio space, under a vaulted glass-pyramid roof, a violinist with a looping pedal ushered in the proceedings. Balancing diaphanous layers with leather garments, the looks were capped off with chunky-heeled sandals and low platforms with gold-tipped straps. For Spring/Summer 2015, Cortazar’s collection was characterized by a surprisingly autumnal color palette. The first piece down the runway, an oversized teal jacket with clasps ascending up the high neck, was a stylish statement, somewhat more remarkable than the other outerwear items like a navy cape or a mauve suede double-breasted jacket. Throughout the collection, long chiffon layers added dimension to the silhouettes and added a feminine delicacy. Balancing “covered up” with tasteful reveals,

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