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Posted 4 years ago
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On Erdem Moralioglu’s mood board, there were pictures of Katharine Hepburn in The African Queen, a proper woman “going bush,” unhinged by the jungle. That was the set today: steamy, dark, slightly sinister. And that was also the scenario. Except that the woman Erdem had in mind was Victorian biologist and botanical artist Marianne North, who traveled the world and defined her profession to the point where there is a gallery dedicated to her at the Royal Botanic Gardens in Kew, outside London. The linear architecture of greenhouses loaned itself to Erdem’s ordered precision, as defined by the lines he embroidered into a quilted dress. Victorian propriety was beautifully embodied in a high-necked, mid-calf apron dress in virginal broderie anglaise. With another, more casual, it was almost as though a crocheted tablecloth had been wrapped and tacked down one side. There were dresses where lush greenery was gorgeously tamed in long, lustrous gowns.

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