A certain grandeur comes to mind when one thinks of Ungaro: Monsieur Emanuel and his posse of fabulous glamour-pusses draped to the hilt, moving like felines through gilded Parisian settings. “This is the temple of flamboyancy,” said the house’s current creative director, Fausto Puglisi, before yesterday’s show. The distance between Emanuel Ungaro’s Ungaro and Puglisi’s interpretation is great. What was a maison de couture has become a full brand. In the meantime, the culture of fashion has radically morphed, going from dream-making machine to finance-driven cash cow. (Being nostalgic, however, is pointless.) Trying to replicate a label’s past in the present can be dangerous: More often than not, the name of the founder is just a frame. According to Puglisi, Ungaro stands for assertive femininity, prints, and color. “The archives are amazing,” he enthused, adding that this season he had paid closer attention than in the past.