Review Collection

Hurrah! After a few seasons showing in Paris in which Kym Ellery’s collections have seemed overburdened by their ambitions, the Sydney-based designer got down to business today. This was a pared-down and relatively straightforward outing full of terrific clothes. Ellery had two main emphases: creating a lean, attenuated silhouette, and elaborating it with rich textures. The opening look established the theme: a pair of extra-long tweed trousers topped with a mesh undershirt and matching tweed singlet. The singlet had a buoyant flare, but this was a more measured take on the sculptural volumes Ellery has explored in the past. The tailoring was a highlight—lots of great pants—and the shirting, too, done in heavy-duty cottons with a touch of sheen. Ellery also scored with her long, almost monastic tank dresses, which kicked out under the hip. Those looks were exceedingly matter-of-fact, but they really worked.

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