“Easy, sporty, softness,” read David Koma’s show notes for spring—three words which seem at odds with the London-based designer’s renowned repertoire of second-skin dresses in racy, stretch-silk jersey and zingy colors. “I was thinking about the David Koma woman and I just wanted her to feel happier and more relaxed this summer,” the designer explained backstage.
He explored this newfound nonchalance through supple textures and relaxed silhouettes, such as slouchy crepe blazers, a spiral-cut ivory top with a cascading chiffon hem, and tapered silk pants that skimmed the ankle just so. Perhaps he was influenced by resort’s prevailing lo-fi mood? “That might have been a small part of it, but I wouldn’t say that informed this collection,” he said. “Honestly, I was just feeling curious and wanted to play around a little.”