Review Collection

Ah, normcore. It was only a matter of time before the word turned up on show notes, as it did today to qualify Cristiano Burani’s summer collection. These were indeed clothes made to be worn without a sense of occasion, seamlessly fitting into a less-is-more notion of reclaimed collective identity.

But the designer’s spin on the cool kids came with lithe updates that sparked interest. Sharply crinkled textures identified a parka; macro-checks embroidered on a top broke up the monotony of the motif; and experimentation with texture distinguished simple enough shapes tailored for casual ease. Think a crisp white sleeveless vest or a floor gazing pleated number, trimmed with striped Gros-grain for her. Or a checkered skirt with a snazzy see-through panel at nipple level for him, or heavy contouring stitches on raw indigo, and the pieces carried familiar ease but didn’t melt under scrutiny. A later group of pastel checks felt a bit more standardized and too anonymous.

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