Review Collection

Backstage after his show, Hussein Chalayan was trying patiently to explain to a pair of Italian journalists who were in desperate need to know the “message” and the “meaning” behind his latest work that it was really up to them to pull out and interpret the themes of his designs.

Granted, the title of his signature show did give something away. Called “Moor’s Gaze,” it was a clear evolution from his pre-collection titled “Moor’s Chorus.” The designer seems still to be enchanted by the look and feel of North Africa and Andalusia, and the Maghreb connection between Spain and Morocco. That persistent fascination conjured up a fresh and tonic collection on Friday.

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