“This Woman’s Work” by Kate Bush opened the Céline show this afternoon. “She’s with me today, I hope,” said Phoebe Philo, wearing a T-shirt from Bush’s recent 22-night session in London. “I was incredibly inspired by that song. I couldn’t believe how vulnerable it was. And being vulnerable is an incredibly important part of being creative.”
Vulnerability for Philo this season meant embracing uncertainty. “In a way, I was open to everything—no preconceived ideas, very little of me saying no.” The collection was almost a stream of consciousness, a random portmanteau of moods and emotions from the very first outfit: a utilitarian top paired with a fitted knit skirt, provocatively slit front and back, that dissolved into a mass of fringing. Work and play in one artful package. It set the tone for what followed.