Balmain’s Olivier Rousteing said his starting point this season was last season’s after-party. Scroll back through the months and you’ll recall Rihanna, a sheer mesh top, and a much-liked Instagram pic. “Let’s free the nipple, you know what I mean?” he said backstage. As it turns out, there were no exposed nipples here, but there was a lot of skin and no shortage of transparencies—from the plastic inset on the hem of a mini, to the plissé mousseline of swishy flares, to the sheer nylon knits that have been popular on other runways as well. But for a show that was about “pushing the boundaries of sex,” as Rousteing bluntly put it, it didn’t always read as sexy.