Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi love nothing quite so much as an obscure reference. This season it was Henri Matisse’s Chapelle du Rosaire de Vence in the South of France, known for its colorful stained-glass windows and its elemental black and white murals. “I want those entering my chapel to feel themselves purified and lightened of their burdens,” Matisse once said. A tall order for a church, let alone a fashion show. But we can understand the instinct.