When Sébastien Meunier took over as creative director of Ann Demeulemeester last season, he was being handed a poisoned chalice. As these things go, it probably seemed like an easy gig—the look that Ann herself established is so identifiable and distinctive, surely all that would be required is a seasonal re-scrambling of the essential elements: some deconstructed tailoring here, a bit of smudgy layering there. Black and white. Sensual textures. Some diaphanous wafting. Presto! Collection à la Ann. The trouble—the poison, as it were—is that Meunier is far from the only designer who has figured out the Demeulemeester codes: They’re not exactly a secret. Indeed, they’ve infiltrated the look and attitude of fashion far and wide. And so a lazy approach at Demeulemeester yields results like the ones on the brand’s catwalk today, a gloomy procession of models wearing what looked like better-than-average Demeulemeester knockoffs.