A Greek passport with an Italian address—this season Angelos Bratis joined the coterie of newcomers selected by Giorgio Armani to show in his Teatro Armani venue. Coming after Stella Jean and Au Jour Le Jour, both of whom were fairly flamboyant, Bratis set a different tone: His models seemed both fierce and solemn. The designer studied at the Netherlands’ Fashion Institute Arnhem before moving to Italy and winning the first prize at the Who Is On Next contest in 2011. He seemed like a natural choice for Armani: The two share a minimalist sensibility and a taste for pared-down purity, not to mention a proclivity for muted, dusty colors. Comparisons stop there, however—Bratis is not interested in the interplay between the masculine and the feminine, nor is he dressing the working woman. Having been in the spotlight for a while, he focused his Spring collection on what he does best: dresses.