Review Collection

Alexis Mabille opened and closed his show with two versions of a “boxing dress,” short in satin, long in crepe. Normally this would invite some analogy to being in fighting form. Yet the designer stressed backstage that, despite the obvious sport message, this collection was an exercise in conceiving a wardrobe of ultrafeminine essentials. Mabille explained how each piece related back to sport in some way, even if obliquely; he added track trim and a hood to a white cotton gabardine trench, for instance, and turned sweatpants into the type of high-waist trousers that could be worn to the theater. Meanwhile, all those mesh sheaths over sequined gold bikinis leaned more toward Sports Illustrated than SoulCycle—a flawless body would be a prerequisite for wearing them.

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